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Apply the trailer handbrake, remove any towball and
electrical socket dust covers and security devices then
wind the jockey wheel to the required height. Check
the towball is lightly oiled. (Not greased) (If not
being used with a head stabiliser.)
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Get a helper to stand with their hands showing you where
the hitch is (place a broom against it if you are alone)
and reverse slowly back. Your helper indicates if you
are off line.
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Raise the front of the trailer by means of the jockey
wheel assembly to the required height, roll trailer
up to the rear of the towing vehicle.
-
If the trailer has tandem axles, raise sufficiently
to raise the front wheels clear of the ground to aid
maneuverability.
-
Do not attempt to lift the front of the trailer. Lower
the trailer by means of the jockey wheel assembly onto
the towball of the vehicle.
-
Over the last foot or so, your helper should use their
hands to show you the actual distance between towball
and coupling head.
-
If you have to stop a few inches short, judge how far
back you are going by comparing the front wheels' movement
to something on the ground.
Wind the jockey wheel down to lower the coupling head
onto the towball.
Some coupling heads have a locking handle which stays
up then automatically locks onto the ball, others have
to be held up and may have an indicator to show when
the ball is in place.
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Once the coupling head appears locked on, lower the
jockey wheel a few turns to lift the back of the vehicle
to prove the coupling head is on properly, then fully
raise the wheel before unclamping it and, finally, securely
locking it fully raised. Check that the wheel in the
position you have locked it is not interfering with
the operation of the coupling overrun mechanism.
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Attach safety breakaway cable(s) to the rear of vehicle.
This cable will apply the hand brake if for any reason
the trailer becomes detached whilst towing. (Clip the
breakaway cable onto the special rings some towbars
have or loop it around the bar, making sure it cannot
foul the coupling head. Do not loop it round the towball
neck unless you can find no alternative.) Check that
the breakaway and lighting cables have enough slack
for cornering but will not touch the ground.
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Plug in the lighting plug, and check all lights and
indicators. The electrical plug only fits one way, so
line up its cut-out with the lug on the bottom edge
of the socket. Some cars have two sockets – use
the one with the black cover flap because the one with
the white flap is for caravan supplementary electrical
systems.
-
It is your responsibility as the driver to ensure all
lights work. Turn on the car lights and check the trailer's
lights. With the ignition on, make sure the correct
indicators are working – car and trailer indicators
not matching is a common fault – then get someone
to see if the trailer brake lights work. (If you are
alone, use a short stick between the pedal and the seat
to hold down the brake pedal.)
Adjust both external mirrors so that a view down both
sides of the trailer can be obtained.
(If this cannot be achieved extension mirrors should
be fitted).
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When loading a trailer ensure the weight is distributed
appropriately. Nose weight is a very important factor
in making your vehicle and trailer combination stale
during towing. Inadequate nose weight can cause snaking
problems. Too much nose weight causes other problems.
-
Noseweight should be at least 50kg when the outfit is
stationary. Refer to the recommendations of you vehicle
and trailer manufacturers.
-
It is your responsibility, as the driver, to ensure
that your vehicle or trailer is not overloaded.
-
If the trailer has an eye coupling, after attaching
the trailer, make sure that the safety locking catch
on the towing pin is properly applied and that the safety
pin or clip is fitted.
(If this is not fitted, the trailer could become unhitched).
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Lift up and lock the jockey wheel assembly. (If this
is not done, the jockey wheel will become damaged).
